Toile de Jouy: Art, Industry, and Popular Culture
Toile de Jouy: Art, Industry, and Popular Culture
In 1760, Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf founded a textile factory in Jouy-en-Josas, France. His iconic monochromatic prints remain popular today.
You know it when you see it, even if you’re unfamiliar with its name: a monochromatic print against a light background; fine illustrations with 18th-century flair; pastoral vignettes that call to mind the decor of a French chateau. Today, you can find this design in fast-fashion, bedspreads, wallpaper, and an $80 Dior notebook.
At the intersection of art, industrialization, and popular culture is toile de Jouy.
Toile de Jouy translates to “cloth from Jouy.” Like champagne, toile de Jouy once exclusively referred to fabrics produced at the factory of Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf (1738-1815) in Jouy-en-Josas, France. Today, the term is used broadly for any monochromatic print produced in the intricate style developed by Oberkampf’s artists. Since learning more about its history, I’ve remained fascinated by the complex origins of toile de Jouy, and how this one print represents both the triumphs and pitfalls of the Industrial Revolution (particularly as it relates to the expansion of empire). I also have an appreciation for beautiful design, and toile de Jouy remains one of my favorites.
The road to toile de Jouy’s invention begins in India. During the 17th century, European companies like the British East India Company and the Dutch East India Company embarked on a race for dominance in Asia, first in trade, and eventually, in colonization. Spices and textiles were coveted commodities—especially the lightweight cotton fabric known as muslin, which was produced on the Indian subcontinent.
For centuries, Indian artisans had perfected a method of adhering colorful patterns onto muslin through the use of a mordant, a metallic oxide that binds with dyes to bond onto cotton fibers.1 This technique ensured that vibrant, woodblock-printed fabrics could be washed in water without the colors bleeding into each other.
These stunning fabrics provided the ultimate commercial opportunity for European traders. Consumers in countries like England and France lacked access to equivalent products, resulting in skyrocketing demand for what became known as “chintz” textiles. (The word chintz comes from the Hindu chint, which means “variegated,” “spotted,” or “sprayed.”)2 Soon, the most fashionable men and women would glide through the hottest days of summer in airy cotton fabrics printed in the latest florals.
As you might imagine, the importation of chintz posed a major threat to European silk manufacturers. In response, laws banning the importation or domestic production of printed textiles passed first in France in 1686, and then in England in 1700. (England made an exception for printed textiles that were to be exported, and these fabrics grew popular in the American colonies as a result.)3
Despite these bans, the black market for chintz flourished, and the consequences of cotton’s popularity proved brutal. In order to keep up with demand, European powers began growing cotton in their overseas colonies, fueling the transatlantic slave trade to North America (particularly in what would become the United States), and later, the colonization of India. The desire for chintz was so strong that the governments of England and France would eventually give up their bans, opening the door for a new generation of industrialists to create textile factories.
One of these figures was Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf. Born in what is now Blaufelden, Germany in 1738, Oberkampf hailed from a family of textile dyers. He apprenticed in Mulhouse and Basel, where he learned the techniques of woodblock printing that were used to produce chintz.4 He worked briefly in Paris before opening his own factory in Jouy-en-Josas in 1760, thanks to the end of the French ban four years prior.
Jouy-en-Josas possessed two key advantages. First, fabric printing required enormous quantities of water—the cleaner, the better. This quaint suburb of Paris sat along the Bièvre River, known for its especially pure water.5 Second, Jouy-en-Josas was conveniently close to the aristocrats of Versailles, whom Oberkampf hoped would provide a strong customer base.
Initially, Oberkampf’s factory produced textiles that copied popular chintz patterns from India, and these reproductions became known as indiennes. Oberkampf gained a reputation for making toile of exceptional quality; he ensured that his prints used the best dyes, and he experimented with different dyeing methods throughout his life. While woodblock printing allowed for the use of multiple colors in the same design, he faced one problem: with wood, it was difficult to produce highly-intricate images.
A trip to England proved revolutionary. In 1769, Oberkampf visited the factory of Robert Jones at Old Ford, where Jones printed fabric using engraved copper plates.6 This technique was initially developed in Ireland in the 1750s, but had yet to make it to France. Oberkampf was thrilled—finally, he could hire brilliant artists to illustrate vignettes using this new copper-plate technology. The one disadvantage was that the plates could only be implemented with a singular shade, resulting in the famous monochromatic color schemes that we associate with toile de Jouy today.
Pressing forward, Oberkampf hired a team of skilled artists and engravers, including Pierre-Guillaume Lemeunnie, Ludwig Rothrdorf, and most prominently, Jean-Baptiste Huet.7 In a true stroke of genius, Oberkampf commissioned designs inspired not just by mythology and biblical stories, but also popular novels and operas. (His toile based on Don Quixote is one example; see below.) The vignettes allowed for the display of complete stories, similar to how the stained glass windows in medieval churches aided viewers in following biblical tales. This new style also represented a blend of fine art and popular culture, which was made possible thanks to faster industrial processes of reproduction.
However, the most common copper-plate design produced by Oberkampf’s factory was the genre scene or pastoral.8 I would argue that in this, we see another impact of industrialization that still resonates all these centuries later—before there was “cottage core,” there was the genre scene and the romanticization of peasant life. Today, when one imagines toile de Jouy, these pastorals loom large.
Oberkampf died in 1815, leaving his factory to his son Emile. Over time, tastes shifted, the business declined, and the factory was finally forced to close in 1843. As with many popular prints, toile de Jouy has cycled in and out of fashion over the centuries. Contemporary artists continue to find inspiration in the original prints, sometimes reinterpreting them with modern imagery and commentary.
Each iteration allows viewers to revel in the storytelling and meticulous detail of toile de Jouy, while new designs implement increasingly-advanced printing technology. Given Oberkampf’s enthusiasm for innovation, something tells me that he would be pleased.
Related essays from The Crossroads Gazette:
“I Don’t Want More Choice; I Just Want Nicer Things!” - Anyone who’s had the (dis)pleasure of buying clothing recently knows that even expensive items are cheaper than ever. On the complicated history of textiles, and how we got here. Read the full story here.
Rococo, Old and New - Elegant or frivolous? Pretty or polarizing? From 18th century Parisian salons to the Cannes premiere of Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette—how Rococo persists in dividing its viewers. Read the full story here.
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Last week’s Crossroads Roundup: Bronze Age Artifacts in the Mail, an Ancient Plague, and Mona Lisa’s Villa - Our favorite stories on art, archaeology, folklore, and more from this past week. Read the full story here.
Marika Sardar. “Indian Textiles: Trade and Production,” Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History (New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–), http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/intx/hd_intx.htm.
Anna Elise Anderson, “A Brief History of Chintz,” Architectural Digest, last modified June 2, 2023, https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/chintz-explained.
Melinda Watt, “Textile Production in Europe: Printed, 1600–1800,” Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History (New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–), http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/txt_p/hd_txt_p.htm.
Judith Straeten, Toiles de Jouy (Layton: Gibbs Smith, 2002), 4.
Straeten, Toiles de Jouy, 4.
Straeten, Toiles de Jouy, 6.
Straeten, Toiles de Jouy, 5.
Straeten, Toiles de Jouy, 7.
Fascinating. I hadn't realized that the Oberkampfs' factory was so (relatively) short-lived.
this was a fantastic piece. Immensely enjoyed reading it and definitely learned something. thanx